The Aim Of Nail Extensions
The aim of nail extensions is to create these to be as thin and natural-looking as possible while still ensuring longevity for the client.
When the enhancements are too thick, not only does this cause more stress on the natural nail but it makes the enhancement more prone to service breakdown such as lifting.
Many techs apply too much product across the whole surface of the enhancement and rely on filing to remove this.
It is a waste of time and product to apply excess product only to remove straight away.
The one part on the whole enhancement that should be the highest is the apex.
The thickness should also be evenly distributed throughout the enhancement, which can be mastered by controlling the application with the brush and correct finish filing.
A salon length nail should be the thickness of credit card at the free edge (approximately .03 inches).
Without proper structure, combining all the correct elements additional product will need to be added and more stress added to the nail.
The apex doesn’t need to be a too big.
Around twice as thick as at the free edge is enough for a salon wearable nail. From the cuticle to apex should just be a gradual incline, with the upper arch coming out in a straight line to the free edge. Only the angle of this upper arch changes with shape and length. the apex is a just the highest point.
When creating enhancements, the thicker the free edge the more pressure is on it. Gravity and the extra weight of product will pull this down.
Also when applying gel polish or a design on top of an enhancement of how many additional layers you will be applying. This will naturally make the enhancement thicker, so must be taken into consideration when filing the enhancement and take this marginally thinner than usual to compensate for the additional layers.
At infill stage make sure you remove enough product. Many techs do not remove enough product and then reapply, doubling the thickness of the enhancement.
Apex/Stress Area
The apex is the thickest point of a nail enhancement which should be placed where the nail would break For good structure, placement of the apex should always remain at the stress area which will change depending on the length of the enhancement. Of course, as your nail grows out, the arch will grow toward the free edge and the nail will become top heavy and be more prone to breakage and lifting. This is the reason why clients come in every 2-3 weeks for a fill/re-balance – it has nothing to do with the gap at the cuticle! Actually leaving a small (1/16″-1/8″) gap at the cuticle so you can completely blend product into the natural nail will help go a long way to the nail looking more natural as it grows out.
Where is the Apex?
The apex should be positioned over the stress area, which is midway between the cuticle and the extension edge. The position of the apex will change depending on the length of the extensions.
Are the Upper Arch and Apex the same?
The upper arch is determined by the apex. The highest part of the apex is the upper arch. This is where the product is applied the thickest, and then it is tapered down thin to the cuticle, sidewalls and extension edge.
How is the Apex created?
Proper placement of the apex and creating thin edges can be done during the application. Learn to sculpt and shape with the brush and not the file. Use smaller more controlled beads when applying product. Use a larger bead in zone two, and press lightly from side to side leaving the middle higher. You can if need be, file the unwanted product thickness to the desired final look.
Again, try to practice building the apex without filing. Filing only creates more work for you, the nail technician.
Lower Arch –
To find the lower arch of a nail extensions, look from the side, at the sidewall from the lowest point where the nail plate leaves the nail bed (free edge). The nail extensions should look like it has grown out from the finger, not just stuck on top growing straight.
Lateral Structure
A strong nail begins and ends with lateral structure (sidewalls), which support the structure of the nail extension. A sidewall must extend straight out from the cuticle to the free edge on both sides. When you look at the nail from the side or the top, the sides should be straight and both sides must look the same – even with pointed nails. A nail tech can build a strong sidewall and then ruin it with improper filing techniques. Files are intended to smooth and shape the nail surfaces; wrong angles and a heavy hand can weaken the best structure. Ideally, you should sculpt the nail with your brush and then use a file to level and smooth out the product. In addition, always sit straight! It is impossible to have straight sidewalls if you are sitting crooked or crossing your legs. One last tip is watch the side of your dominant hand – many techs over file the right side if they are right handed, or vice versa if they are left handed Really pay attention to your stronger side and make sure you are not over filing.
C-curves
The strongest shape in the world is an arch – arches support more weight than a flat surface and this is the reason that bridges are built with arches. In the same way, C-curves can make or break a nail. Even an accidental bump to a nail that is flat can cause it to easily break.
Balance
I always think of the balance of the nail and the location of the apex if a nail is too heavy at the extension edge, it is more likely there will be breakage. Keeping the arch in its proper place will go a long way to having nails that last a long time.
Another way to balance a nail is when doing a French manicure. The white on a French tip should NEVER be longer than the pink. Ideally the pink should be 2/3 of the nail and the white 1/3 of the nail or less (for balance). The smile line can be curved gently or more extreme but should never be straight across – a flat smile line will make the nail look wider than it is.