Contra Actions
A contra action is a condition that has arisen during a nail treatment or as a direct result after a treatment has been carried out – treatment can be carried out, cautiously.
Softening or thinning of the nail plate :
Natural nail has been thinned by constant filing: This is a very common occurrence caused by bad technique. You should ensure you use the correct grit file when prepping the natural nail. Use a light touch when blending in tips and exercise accurate and careful filing when working in the cuticle area during maintenance.
Natural nail has been thinned by over priming: Always follow the manufacturers instructions and do not apply to a wet nail.
Natural nail not dehydrated before product application: The natural nail must be prepped fully and wiped over with pure acetone, which will remove grease ,dust and also dehydrate the nail plate before the tip is applied.
Product has lifted and moisture is trapped between the layers: Nail preparation is the key to reduce lifting, removing grease, dust and moisture from the nails before applying product will help towards long lasting extensions. Do not carry out maintenance over lifting product ( Acrylic/Gel ) you will just lock in potential problems. If lifting is too severe then remove the extension, cleanse and reapply.
Nail is wet before product is applied: Do not carry out a manicure soak in water before applying extensions, you need the nails as dry as possible to avoid lifting, use a dehydrator solution or pure acetone on the natural nail.
Splitting and flaking of the natural nail :
Over buffing of the natural nail during prep : use a light touch and correct file.
Over blending of tips: Use your file accurately and carefully, you can use tip blender or pure acetone on a cotton bud to finish off the blending.
Nail Extensions too long, too thin or too thick: The length rule applies, in that the free edge length should never be longer than the length of the natural nail. The stress area of the extension, which is half way up the natural nail, should be the thickest part of the application. So thin at the back, thicker in the middle and thin at the front, free edge.
Client biting or picking off the extensions: Educate your clients about the wrongs of picking off their extensions, the damage it causes to the natural nail. Make sure they know how often they should need maintenance (infills). Acrylic nails should be soaked off in acetone.
Maintenance overdue: Your client needs to be educated as to when maintenance is due, 2-3 weeks is ideal, any longer and problems may start.
Premature loss of nail extensions :
Your clients will judge you on the quality of the nails you do by how long they last!
Preparation of the natural nail not done correctly: Ensure the correct preparation is carried out correctly.
Nail Extensions too long: The length of your clients nails is up to your client but you as the professional can give advice as to a suitable length. This is done during consultation, your clients lifestyle, hobbies, looking after small children, are they sporty, what kind of work do they do? Will all influence the length of the extensions they can cope with.
Changes in clients lifestyle: clients can lose extensions because of medication, diet and increased stress levels.
Improper use of products: always follow manufacturers instructions for a given product. Do not mix products from different companies.
Lifting of product :
Preparation of the natural nail not done correctly: Remove all oil, dust and moisture from the nail plate during and after preparation of the nail plate, this will ensure proper bonding and adhesion.
Medication and stress levels: do an in depth consultation.
Nail extensions too long: the longer the extensions the more the stress level will be at the back of the tip due to leverage, this can weaken the whole extension.
Contamination of products and tools: Always work in a safe, clean environment.
Improper application of products: Follow the manufacturers instructions.
Product touching the skin when applied.
Clients not returning for maintenance: it is up to you as a professional to advise your clients as to when they should return for infills/maintenance. Left too long the extensions will lift, may get infection in the airspace and will be a much longer job to do the maintenance.
Discoloration of the nail plate:
Air bubbles: pockets of air left under the tip will cause an infection to start. The heat from the finger will cause bacteria and moisture trapped in the air pocket to cause the nail to go green, then brown, then black. Never put another tip on top of an area that has gone brown/black, advise that they see a GP. Green is usually just on the surface and can be removed with gentle filing, then a new tip may be fitted.
Bacterial infection: this may be caused by, improper preparation, cracking of the natural nail or extension, lifting of product from the nail plate so moisture is trapped between the layers, client picking, biting, tearing or ripping off the product.
As a nail technician you cannot treat any nail condition and must never diagnose a condition. To do this could lead to a whole host of problems and lead to a client suing you. So leave treating and diagnosing to the medical profession.