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Lash Lift Course

PATCH TEST 24 hours before service

You MUST conduct a patch test for lash lift BEFORE EVERY treatment.
Any plaster should be hypoallergenic and latex free.

Patch test would test the
Bonder, Lifting balm, Volumising Fixer, Serum
Patch Testing

A patch test must be carried out. This is usually 24-48 hours before the treatment. Many Companies say that 15 minutes prior to treatment is ok, but some clients may take up to 48 horse before a reaction will appear.
The patch test is done either in the inside joint of the arm, or on the outside of the ear.
Tell the client that the glue is clear. If any reaction occurs, the therapist should be informed and treatment cancelled.

Treating minors
In England, Wales and Northern Ireland a minor is anyone under the age of 18. Sometimes you will get requests for appointments from clients who are younger. If the client is under 18, you should always obtain written permission from their parent or guardian for the treatment to go ahead and they should accompany the minor to the salon for the appointment. It is also recommended that you check your insurance policy wording to see if there are any age restrictions detailed in it.
Salon owners should insist that appointments for under-16s are booked out of school hours
Tanning treatments should not be carried out on under-18s, in line with guidance from the British Medical Association and the HSE.
We recommend that intimate waxing such as Hollywood and Brazilian waxing should not be carried out on anyone under the age of 18.
Contra indications

Any conditions affecting the eye or surrounding tissue
Skin or eye irritations or inflammations
Swelling, bruising, cute or abrasions round the eye area
Nervous clients who cannot stay still for treatment

Welcome to your Lash Lift course

The eyes are possibly the most important feature on a person’s face. Widely considered to be “the windows to the soul”. Emphasising and grooming the eye area enhances the whole face and can make a drastic difference to a person’s appearance.
THE DATA PROTECTION ACT
CONFIDENTIALITY

The Data Protection act protects people from having their personal information being freely available to others. The 1984 act was updated in 1989 to bring it in line with Europe.

The changes that affect client record cards are;

The act now includes manual filing of personal information.
Only relevant personal information should be recorded.
Any personal information recorded about individual clients must be retained, after seeking permission from the client.
The client has a right to access their own personal client record card
It is not permitted for you to disclose any personal details to third parties without specific consent from the client

Organisations, which keep records of personal information, must:

Register with the Data Protection Register
Make sure all information is correct and up to date
Have personal records available for their access
Make sure all records are kept in a secure and safe place

All information given by the client must be treated with confidentiality, whether it is information for a record card or a treatment that they are enquiring about.
It should not be discussed other than in a professional capacity with any other member of staff, neither should it be discussed with other clients regardless of whether they are known to each other.

Types of information, which is, classed as confidential information:

The clients record card, which includes – name, address, telephone number, medical & physical information, and treatments.
Financial information – cost of personal treatments and how they are paid
Information relating to the business – Business finances, treatment routines, and product formulas
Information relating to the staff

Only the business and its therapists should have access to any of the above. All information should be kept locked in a secure filing cabinet or a secure computer.
Health & Safety
When performing treatments on members of the public, there are certain rules and guidelines that you should be aware of. We recommend that you contact your local council offices in order to obtain current information on the following;
. Control of substances hazardous to health (COSHH)
. Health & safety at work regulations
. Trade descriptions act
. Licensing regulations
. Fire regulations & precautions
Whether you work in a salon or are mobile, it is necessary for you to observe several common sense rules to ensure maximum safety for you and your clients.
Keep all areas of your work station clean & tidy at all times
Store products safely in a cool dark place
Read all labels & follow the manufacturer’s instructions
Do not eat at your desk
Never mix chemicals together which are not designed to be mixed
Make sure all products are labelled and keep them well away from children
All electrical equipment should be PAT tested annually
Ensure there are no trailing wires that can cause trips or falls
Keep dust to a minimum
Wash hands regularly and before eating
Keep MSDS (material safety data sheets) for reference

COSHH – Control of Substances Hazardous to Health
Employers are required by law to control exposure to hazardous chemicals and substances as well as a duty to protect anyone who could potentially be exposed to them, be it employees or clients.
There are 7 main stages to guide you through COSHH regulations;
A risk assessment of the workplace must be carried out, citing any hazardous substances.
Once identified, log any risks and decide on suitable actions.
Adequate control of chemical usage must be in place to prevent over-exposure.
Training records must be kept up-to-date and any comments logged.
Exposure levels must be monitored and technicians made aware of symptoms & actions.
If COSHH regulations have outlined specific requirements, ensure health observations are carried out.
Employers must ensure that all employees are fully trained, aware of procedures, supervised and kept up-to-date.
Waste Disposal
While you are working, have a metal pedal bin with a lid and a disposable liner near to you.
Put all waste (e.g. cotton wool, tissues, disposable towels) into the bin. The waste may have solvents soaked into them, by putting them into a covered metal bin this will help to minimise vapours.
At the end of the day, take out the bin liner and seal it with a knot. This can then be disposed of in the dustbin or usual waste collection. Do not attempt to burn the waste.
Never pour solvents down a sink or toilet, this can cause a build up of vapours in the drains or even melt the plastic pipes causing problems.
Wipe up any spillages immediately. Solvents spills can be wiped up with absorbent material, such as couch roll, and disposed of in the usual manner.
If you are planning to be a mobile technician, make sure that your insurance policy covers you for accidental damage in client’s homes.

 

Salon Hygiene
The purpose of salon hygiene is to prevent contamination and avoid cross infection.
There are 3 levels of decontamination;
Sterilisation;
This process kills all living organisms. Sterile, in this context, means free from living disease.
There are 2 methods to achieve sterilisation;
Extreme heat, such as an autoclave
Chemical sterilising solution.
Disinfection;
This process kills some living organisms and inhibits the growth of others.
This level of decontamination should be used on all hard surfaces and non-disposable tools and equipment, usually in a solution form.
Sanitisation;
This process inhibits the growth of many micro-organisms.
This method of decontamination is safe to use on skin and is usually available in a sanitising spray solution, hand wash or gel form.
Overexposure
When performing any treatment on the eyes it is essential that you perform a patch test. A small amount of the chemicals being used in the treatment are applied to your client just behind the ear or on the inside of the arm at least 24 hours prior to the treatment. This will enable you to tell if they have any reaction to the chemicals being used.
We live in a world of chemicals, we are chemicals. The only things that are not chemicals are different types of energy; heat, light and electricity. The word ‘Chemical’ does not mean harmful but, all chemicals are potentially harmful. What changes them from safe to unsafe is the amount of contact with the body.
By following the manufacturer’s instructions, maintaining a high level of health & safety and working cleanly and hygienically, you will minimise the risk of overexposure to both yourself and your clients.
Overexposure is exceeding a safe level of any product and is your body’s way of telling you it has had enough of that product. This can include food types, animals, pollens and detergents.
An allergic reaction is caused by repeated overexposure. The most common allergic reaction is a skin rash. With eye products this is most usual on the face or on the eye area itself. Other symptoms can include erythema, watery eyes, itchy eyes, blurred vision or headaches.
Should an allergic reaction occur, the product must be removed immediately and then seek medical advice.
Reactions to products may not always occur straight away and can be the cause of prolonged contact over a period of time.
Knowledge of chemicals is the best defence against over-exposure and good practices are a necessity – not a luxury.
Routes of entry
It is important to have an understanding of the routes of entry as well as ways to prevent them.
There are 3 ways that substances are taken into the body;
Inhalation – breathing in vapours or fine dust particles.
Absorption – through the skin, or via cuts or abrasions.
Ingestion – through the mouth, accidental consumption of chemicals.

Client Consultation
As with every stage of the treatment, the client consultation is important and each new client must have a full consultation before treatment begins. Results of patch tests must be recorded on the consultation form.
It is very common for clients to book an eye treatment without fully understanding all the stages involved.
Listed below are details of the information required, and why it is necessary;

Contact details -Name, address, telephone numbers (including mobile), Email address.
Patch test results –To ensure your client is not allergic to any of the products.
Occupation – To recommend a treatment.
Medical history – IF the client is on medication or has a medical condition extra care or medical advice may be required.
Allergies – To determine the treatment can go ahead safely.
Condition of skin/eye – To assess if the treatment can be carried out.
Homecare advice – To ensure the client is aware of looking after their brows, and will return for continuation of treatment.

The consultation should be a two way discussion, with the technician finding out sufficient information in order to make recommendations and suggestions, and the client to fully understand what options are available, what can be expected with regard to time and money. In that way, your client will be confident that they are receiving the correct treatment for them.
Some clients do not want to give their telephone number, this is required, in case you are unable to keep an appointment or are running late etc.
The skin
The skin is the largest organ of the human body. It needs to be kept in good working condition in order for it to function correctly and protect our bodies.
The functions of the skin
Sensation – There are several different nerve endings carried within the skin, which respond to heat, cold, touch, pressure & pain.
Heat Regulation – The skin helps to keep the body at a constant temperature of 36oC.
Absorption – Substances can be absorbed through the skin, staying in that area, or going into the bloodstream, to then be carried throughout the body.

Protection – The skin gives a waterproof coat which protects the body from dirt, bacterial infection, minor injury and chemical attack.
Excretion – Perspiration and other waste products are lost through the skin.
Secretion – Sebum, which moisturises and protects is produced in the sebaceous glands within the skin.
Storage – The skin stores fat and water to be used up by the body, as it is required.
Vitamin D Formation – The skin produces vitamin D through UV light, this vitamin is essential to absorb calcium.
Layers of the Skin
There are 2 layers of the skin;

The epidermis and the dermis
The Epidermis:
The epidermis is of special interest as nails are evolutionary adaptations of this cell producing area, as is hair.
The epidermis consists of 5 layers of skin cells in various stages of development, growth, adaptation and death.
The adaptation will depend on where in the body the skin is situated: e.g. in a hair follicle the cells will form a hair, in the matrix of the nail, they will form a nail plate.
In areas exposed to ultra violet light, they will produce more melanin, on the palms of hands and soles of feet, the clear layer (stratum lucidum) will be much thicker. The base layer or stratum germinativum is where the skin cells are formed and is responsible for the growth of the epidermis. They contain melanin and the early stages of keratin, which is a protein, and will eventually form either a protective layer on the top of the skin or be adapted to form nails or hair.
In the epidermis, the developing cells under them push up the new cells towards the surface. As they move upwards the keratin becomes more developed and other structures within the cell begin to disintegrate. A waterproof fat or lipid is secreted between the cells which holds them together and forms a protective barrier to the environment.
In continuing the journey to the surface, the cells loose all their contents except the tough keratin and form a layer of closely packed, flattened, non-living structures held together by lipids and keratin. Eventually, these bonds break down and the cells are shed from the surface of the skin.
The length of this journey depends on the thickness of the skin and can take from 3 to 10 weeks. There are many conditions that affect this cycle and stimulation to an area, such as massage, will encourage a faster, healthier growth.
The Dermis:
This layer carries the many structures within the skin such as nerves, blood capillaries, nerve endings; sweat ducts that open onto the surface of the skin as pores, sebaceous glands that open into hair follicles.

The main feature of the dermis is the network of strong fibres of which there are two types: collagen and elastin. They are both made of protein. Collagen acts as a support to the skin and keeps it firm and gives it a plump, youthful appearance. Elastin gives the skin its elastic properties allowing it to move and stretch but return to its original position.

In young skin, both types of fibres are plentiful but as the skin ages the fibres start to break down and are not replaced so readily. The lack of collagen allows the skin to form into wrinkles between muscles and lack of elastin allows the skin to become softer and less firm.

The skin on the back of the hands does not always demonstrate the exact biological age as it is prone to misuse and damage. The skin of the face is usually more cared for and can often appear younger than the person’s actual age. Conversely, hands often give away age and can look older than necessary.

An easy way to discover the type of skin on the hand is to carry out the ‘pinch test’. Gently pinch the skin on the back of the hand and watch how quickly it returns to normal. A very young skin will return instantly, but the older the skin, the longer it takes.

SKIN DISEASES

Do not proceed with waxing if the skin is infected or inflamed.

These are examples of common skin diseases you may encounter: –

Herpes Simplex
Herpes simplex virus causes cold sores which
are small blisters that develop on the lips or around the mouth.
Ringworm
Ringworm is a common and highly infectious skin infection that
causes a ring-like red rash on the skin
Eczema
Eczema is a condition that causes the skin to become itchy,
red, dry and cracked. Itching/burning/blisters
Psoriasis
Psoriasis is a skin condition that causes red, flaky, crusty patches of skin
covered with silvery scales. Round dry patches
Impetigo Bacterial infection, highly contagious
Impetigo is a highly contagious skin infection which causes sores and blisters
Viral infection
There are a number of viral infections that may cause a rash, do not perform a treatment
See NHS website for info on skin diseases
http://www.nhs.uk/Livewell/skin/Pages/Commonconditions.aspx

If the skin is infected, or you believe there is a problem then do not treat and refer to a doctor.
Do not diagnose skin disorders.
Eye Conditions
We are not doctors but here are some pointers.

Conjunctivitis – Inflammation of the conjunctiva.

Styes – Very common, can become infectious. Look like a red spot on eyelid.

Blepharitis – Inflammation of skin surrounding the eye. Should be dealt with quickly, as can get chronic.

Cataract – Clouding of the lens. Client would need written permission from doctor.

Iritic – Inflammation to the iris, can cause eye to lose its shape. Medical treatment required.

In growing eyelash – Lashes can curl and grow back into eyelid causing inflammation and irritation.

Chalazae – Painless lump in eyelid, may be caused by blockage of sebaceous glands.

Trachoma – Trachoma is caused by infection with the bacteria Chlamydia trachomatis.
Highly contagious viral infection.

Glaucoma – Disease caused by excessive glucose in the body. It is normally associated with increased fluid pressure in the eye, can cause permanent damage in eye if not treated.

Black eye – The area will be swollen and bruised.

Watery eyes – This may be caused by irritation, make up or allergies.

Note: All eye conditions must be considered and treated as a contra indication and it is always better to get medical advice or not perform a treatment.

 

 

Keratin A protein which forms hair
Cuticle The outermost part of the hair shaft
Cortex Middle layer of hair
Medulla Inner most layer of the hair shaft
Inner Root Sheath This is located between the outer root sheath and the hair shaft. It is made up of 3 layers, Henle’s Layer, Huxleys Layer, and the cuticle.
Outer Root Sheath This encloses the inner root sheath and hair shaft.

Connective Tissue This is a form of fibrous tissue. Collagen is the main protein of connective tissue.
Dermal Papillae This nourishes all hair follicles and brings food and oxygen to the lower layers of epidermal cells.

Hair Growth Cycle
Eyelashes go through 3 stages of hair growth

Anagen (active growth phase)
Catagen (transition/regression phase)
Telogen (resting phase)

 

Eyelash growth cycle

Eyelashes grow in three phases. The only thing that differs between different types of hair, lash or head hair for example, is how long the phases take.

Follicles.
Each individual hair is formed inside a hair bulb deep in a hair follicle, and has it’s own growth schedule. Lashes grow and fall out one by one at completely different times. This is why we never end up losing all our eye lashes at the same time. A healthy follicle produces nice strong hair. If you pull a hair out of a follicle another one will grow up in its place. If you lost your eyelashes because they were pulled out, then as long as the follicle isn’t damaged, your lashes will grow back as soon as it ends the dormant state.

Anagen – the growth phase.
Each follicle can grow many hairs over a lifetime: The phasing of the growth cycle is staggered amongst the follicles. This prevents periodic phases of baldness when the growth cycle stops. The growth phase is called ANAGEN. How long anagen lasts is determined genetically, and varies between the sexes and from one person to another. It is the length of this time that determines how long the hair will grow. For head hair, the anagen phase can last from three to as many as seven years.

Catagen – the intermediate phase.
The CATAGEN phase is a short resting phase that follows the anagen phase. This phase lasts between two and four weeks. No pigment is made during that time, and the follicle stops producing hair. The base of the follicle moves upwards towards the surface of the skin.

Telogen – the shedding phase.
The TELOGEN phase lasts for three or four weeks. During this time a new hair begins to grow from the hair follicle. As it grows upwards the old hair will be shed naturally or may be pulled out. Tweezing is easily and painlessly done with telogen hairs. These are the hairs that come out when you shampoo or brush your hair. Shedding is part of the normal process of the replacement of old hair with new. At any one time, around one in ten of the follicles on an individual’s head are in the shedding phase. The new hair emerges from the same opening at the surface of the skin as the old one, and the hair cycle begins again. As people age, the hair cycle can become shorter (this isn’t true for everyone and depends on your genes). The follicles gradually give up producing long, strong hair, and the hairs become thinner and shorter. This can happen to lashes, brows, leg and arm fuzz and so on.

Salon and personal hygiene Lash Lift Course

Your hands
Hands can pose the biggest risk to our health if they are not washed on a regular basis.

Hands must be washed regularly throughout the day – and especially in between clients. Also keep wash areas clean and tidy. You can use hand gel and anti septic sprays ongoing before and after every treatment. Also encourage your client to use hand gel in your salon. This will all help prevent cross infection.

Work surfaces
It is crucial that work surfaces are kept clean to prevent the risk of cross-infection.

Use a professional grade Hard Surface Disinfectant product or wipes, which are also ideal for removing fine dust.

Salon chairs and beauty couches, phones, tills and keyboards must also be kept clean every day with a professional product designed for such surfaces.
Instruments & Tools
All instruments and tools should be thoroughly sanitized in between clients (or sterilized where required).

Whatever products you buy follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
All instruments should be washed before and after sterilising. Tools will not rust if good quality.

Floors
Floors should be kept clean. Use a good quality floor disinfectant.

Good salon hygiene is safer for you and your clients too.

Lash Lift after care form 24 hours

Use recommended serum daily
Comb lashes upwards daily
Don’t wet or rub lashes
Don’t apply cream to lashes
Don’t apply mascara
No facial steamer or swimming

Supplies Used

Eye make up remover
Protein remover pads
Gel pads
Shields
Eye Tool
Micro brushes combs
Bonder
Lifting Balm
Volumising Fix
Serum
Saline

Consultation

Explain about the lash lift treatment
Fill in consultation form/ medical records
Show before and after pictures
Why do you want a lash lift
When did you have a lash tint
Have you had any sensitivity to adhesives of any kind
Do you have sensitive eyes.

Prepare Client and workplace

Couch covered
Wash and sanitise hands
Ask client to remove contact lenses
Cover clients hair
Remove clients make up

Procedure

Remove oil from clients lashes with oil free make up remover.
Wipe across then up and away from lashes
Wipe under lashes too
Comb lashes whilst wet, and check lashes closely.

Lower lash protection

Do not get any product on the lower lashes
Ask client to look upwards
Place gel pads as close to root of lower lashes as possible make sure they are comfortable.
Pads can be trimmed if required.
Comb through lashes

Choosing Shield

Look closely at lashes and choose appropriate shield.
This will determine the look so is very important.
This also depends on what look the client wants too.
Small, medium or large shields

A smaller shield will produce a more dramatic look, a larger one a less pronounced more subtle lift.
Shields can be trimmed if required.

You can test a shield before use to check. If you do not use that one sanitise it before putting it away.

Small shield – great for short lashes
Medium Shield – Average lift for medium lashes
Large Shield – Soft lift for long lashes

Trim shield for different eye shapes.

Lash Lift Shields

Using a small shield on long lashes can result in the tips of the clients lashes touching their eyelid, and possibly lashes starting to fall in different directions.
Also a small shield on hooded or inset eyes the result can be the same and the results may soon look messy.
Use a small shield on short to medium length lashes.
Aim for the lashes to be no more than 70% up the shield.
Medium shields have more of a curve, allowing the lashes to come out more before being lifted.
Using this shield can create more of a curl, for medium lashes.
Can also be a good choice for anyone with hooded lids.
The grow out is less noticeable when you use the correct shield size and enable the client go the full treatment time without issues.
Medium shield on medium to long lashes, again I aim for lashes to be no more than 70% off the way up the shield, or use a different shield.
Large Shields have an even greater curve on them.
Use these shields on very long lashes

Placing the Shield

Select shield and trim if necessary

Apply bonder to back section – just the rectangular area
Ask client to close her eyes apply bonder to shield, wait for bonder to go tacky.

(Apply a little extra bonder to outer corner of shield if it is lifting)

Lift clients brow with your thumb to gently stretch eyelid area.
Place silicone shield along upper eyelid as close as possible to the line of the lashes but not over the line.
Do not catch any upper lashes under the shield.
Hold for about 20 seconds to allow to stick.

If shield is not aligned redo it.

Do not get bonding agent into eye.
Repeat exactily on eye 2. Make sure shield is fitted the same to get an exact match of lift.

Bond Lashes to shield

Once shield is in place, apply a small amount of bonder to the surface. Work in brush strokes, starting from eyelid and working towards yourself.

Apply the bonder in stages, otherwise it may set before lashes are applied to it.
Apply to a small area at a time, then stroke lashes into this area back onto the shield.. Lift each lash individually from root onto the shield. Use the eye tool for this.
Ensure lashes are straight and not overlapping and are lying in the direction you want.

Do not use too much pressure when applying lashes to shield, as they could be uneven.
You can add a small amount of extra bonder if required.

Check clients lashes from the front view to check for gaps and make sure lashes are neat.

Lifting the Lashes

Use the lifting balm to make the lashes flexible. Be very careful with the lashes at this point.

Approx 12 – 15 mins depending on the hair. 

Put some lifting balm into a clean pot. Stir for even consistency.
ONLY APPLY LIFTING BALM TO CENTRE OF LASHES.

Using only a small amount at a time, apply lifting balm GENTLY from root to centre using an upward motion.
DO NOT APPLY TO ENDS OF LASHES OR THEY MAY GO FRIZZY

The thickness and health of clients lashes determines how long to leave the balm on for for it to work.

Remove lash lift balm using a micro brush. Do not stretch or disturb the natural lashes.

How the Product Works

Lifting balm contains hydrogen which breaks down the link which allows the disulphide bonds
which the lash is made up of to move into the new shape.
Disulphide bonds are held in place by small links called cystine links.

Volumising Fix

You need to repair the disulphide bonds, so fixing them into place.
Put some fixing adhesive onto a clean cup
Using a micro brush, apply the fixer evenly and GENTLY over same area as lifting balm and to ends in case of overlap. Lashes are still flexible.
Leave for same amount of time as lifting balm. Remove using a clean micro brush.

The volumising fix contains oxygen which rebuilds the new links to set the new shape.

Moisturising Serum.

Replenishes oil and moisture to lashes.
Leave serum on for 48 hours. DO NOT GET LASHES WET

Comb moisturising serum through the lashes. This will help comb out any remaining bonder. Comb lashes upwards or downwards depending what look you require.

Wipe under lashes with damp cotton wool.

Ask client to sit up slowly with eyes closed. Then open eyes and check their lashes.

Aftercare

It takes approx 24 hours for the lashes to fully set in place.
So don’t perform service late at night.

Dont wet lashes
Don’t apply cream to eyes as it could get into the lashes
Dont apply mascara
No swimming or steam
Clients not to rub lashes after service.
Client should moisturise and comb their lashes daily for a week to 10 days
So client should have some moisturising serum and a comb

Redo lashes every 6-8 weeks

Build a portfolio

Take before and after photos from all angles. To build your portfolio.

But this also shows your client how her lashes have altered

FAQ

What is lash lifting

It is a treatment designed to give longer looking lashes without the need for extensions.

Is it for everyone?

No if they have an allergy to the patch test or any contra indications, they cannot have the treatment.
Or very brittle or sparce lashes it may not work for.

I have downward lashes will it still work?

Yes but the lift may not be as dramatic.

Can someone have lash extensions and lash lift?

Yes, lash lift first. Then 48 hours after have extensions.

Lashes havn’t straightened enough

You may not have removed the protein from the lashes correctly. You would not be able to redo for 7 days.

Lower lashes have curled.

Make sure you cover them well with gel pad.

Ends of lashes look frizzy.

Lifting balm has got on ends of lashes

Can I do lash lift on tinted lashes?

Yes but not on permed lashes until it has grown out.

Pricing

From £45